Hyaluronic acid serum: what it does, what research shows, and how to use it
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- The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (with Ceramides). Best for: Multi-weight HA with ceramides. See options on Amazon
- CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum. Best for: Normal to dry skin, fragrance free. See options on Amazon
- Fragrance-free moisturizer to layer over HA. Best for: Sealing in hydration. See options on Amazon
What hyaluronic acid does
Researchers describe hyaluronic acid as a well-known cosmetic ingredient because of its strong water-binding potential, and native HA is proposed to help skin retain elasticity, turgor and moisture. In skincare, an HA serum is a hydrating step rather than an exfoliant or a treatment for acne.
Because HA attracts water, it works best as part of a routine that also seals moisture in. Both serums compared here pair HA with ceramides, lipids that The Ordinary says lock in water while strengthening the skin's moisture barrier.
What the research found
A study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology tested 0.1% HA creams in five molecular weights (50, 130, 300, 800 and 2000 kDa) in 76 women aged 30 to 60 with wrinkles around the eyes. Each woman applied an HA cream twice daily around one eye and a control cream around the other for 60 days.
All HA creams significantly improved skin hydration and elasticity compared with the control. Only the lower molecular weight groups, 130 and 50 kDa, showed a significant reduction in wrinkle depth after 60 days, which the authors suggested may be due to better penetration. This was one study of creams, not serums, so results from any product may differ.
Measurements of hydration and elasticity were taken before treatment and again at 30 and 60 days, so this was a short-term study. Because the study used a vehicle cream on the opposite eye of each participant as the comparison, it controlled for the effect of simply moisturizing, which makes the hydration results more meaningful.
Two serums compared
| Serum | Key ingredients (maker description) | How the maker says to use it |
|---|---|---|
| The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (with Ceramides) | Five forms of HA (low, medium and high molecular weight, a crosspolymer and hydrolyzed HA), pro-vitamin B5, ceramides | A few drops, morning and evening, after cleansing and before heavier creams |
| CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum | Hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5 (panthenol), three ceramides (NP, AP, EOP) | Apply evenly to face and neck daily, alone or under moisturizer |
Details are from each maker's product page. CeraVe lists its serum as free of added fragrance and non-comedogenic, for normal to dry skin; The Ordinary lists its serum for all skin types.
How to use a hyaluronic acid serum
- Cleanse first, then apply a few drops of serum.
- Layer under moisturizer to help hold in hydration; see our facial moisturizer guide.
- Morning and night both work; The Ordinary suggests morning and evening, CeraVe says daily at any time.
- Finish with sunscreen in the morning; see our mineral sunscreen guide.
- Pair thoughtfully. HA layers easily with other serums; see our vitamin C serum guide and niacinamide serum guide.
Patch testing and cautions
The Ordinary advises a patch test before use: apply a small amount to clean skin on the upper forearm, keep the area dry, and rinse off after 24 hours. Stop use if redness, burning, itching, blistering or irritation occurs. It also says to use the serum only on unbroken skin and to keep it out of reach of children.
If you have had a procedure such as microneedling or a chemical peel, The Ordinary suggests asking your provider for specific post-procedure care rather than assuming a serum is right.
HA serum vs HA supplements
Topical HA hydrates the skin surface where you apply it. Hyaluronic acid is also sold as an oral supplement, which is a different product with different evidence; see our hyaluronic acid capsules guide. For dry skin, a simple routine of gentle cleansing, a hydrating serum, moisturizer and sunscreen is a sensible base, and a dermatologist can help if dryness, redness or itching persists.
What to look for when you buy
The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (with Ceramides)
Best for: Multi-weight HA with ceramides
The Ordinary lists five forms of hyaluronic acid, pro-vitamin B5 and ceramides.
Watch out: Patch test first, as the maker advises.
See options on AmazonCeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Best for: Normal to dry skin, fragrance free
CeraVe lists hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5 and three ceramides, free of added fragrance.
Watch out: Layer under moisturizer for very dry skin.
See options on AmazonFragrance-free moisturizer to layer over HA
Best for: Sealing in hydration
Both makers suggest applying HA serum before or under a moisturizer or heavier cream.
Watch out: Choose a formula suited to your skin type.
See options on AmazonQuestions people ask
- Does hyaluronic acid serum actually work?
- In one 60-day study, 0.1% HA creams improved hydration and elasticity versus a control cream.
- Does hyaluronic acid reduce wrinkles?
- In that study, only lower molecular weight HA (50 and 130 kDa) significantly reduced wrinkle depth.
- When should I apply hyaluronic acid serum?
- After cleansing and before moisturizer, morning, evening or both.
- Is hyaluronic acid good for sensitive skin?
- The Ordinary lists its HA serum as suited to sensitive skin, but advises a patch test first.
- Can I use hyaluronic acid with vitamin C?
- HA serums are commonly layered with other serums; follow each product's directions.
- How long does hyaluronic acid take to work?
- In the study, hydration and elasticity were measured at 30 and 60 days; wrinkle depth changes were seen at 60 days.
Sources
- Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment (pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov), Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (PubMed 22052267)
- Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (with Ceramides) (theordinary.com), The Ordinary
- Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum (cerave.com), CeraVe