Retinol serum: how to start, which strength, and who should skip it
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- The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane. Best for: First-time retinol users. See options on Amazon
- The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane. Best for: People who tolerate a lower strength. See options on Amazon
- CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum. Best for: Post-acne marks and texture. See options on Amazon
What retinol is
The AAD describes retinoids as a catch-all term for vitamin A-based products used on skin, and retinol as a type of retinoid that is routinely used to improve uneven skin tone, pigmentation and texture. The AAD notes retinol is available over the counter in many products, and that adapalene, a retinoid for acne, comes in both prescription and over-the-counter forms.
The Ordinary describes retinol as an ingredient that improves the appearance of fine lines that can arise from a loss of collagen and elastin, while evening the appearance of texture and tone.
The Ordinary's 0.5% serum lists squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, jojoba seed oil and retinol among its ingredients, and describes it as water-free and alcohol-free, with squalane to help skin better withstand the drying effects of retinol.
Choosing a strength
| The Ordinary serum | Strength | Maker guidance |
|---|---|---|
| Retinol 0.2% in Squalane | 0.2% | Where The Ordinary suggests starting |
| Retinol 0.5% in Squalane | 0.5% | An intermediate formulation, water-free, in 30ml |
| Retinol 1% in Squalane | 1% | Work up to it slowly |
Details are from The Ordinary's product page. The AAD notes there is no standard requirement that the percentage of retinol be disclosed on a label, and advises using the lowest formulation you can find. Products that do state a percentage make it easier to start low.
Some retinol serums are built around a specific concern. CeraVe says its Resurfacing Retinol Serum, developed with dermatologists for post-acne skin, uses encapsulated retinol to help resurface skin, licorice root extract to help brighten its appearance, three essential ceramides to help restore the protective barrier, and niacinamide, which it says may help calm skin and reduce water loss. Like other cosmetic retinol products, it does not list a retinol percentage on the page, so the AAD's advice to start slowly still applies.
How to start
- Go slowly. An AAD dermatologist advises using it every other night to start.
- Use it at night. The AAD quotes a dermatologist who advises using retinol only at night.
- One retinoid at a time. The Ordinary says its retinol must not be used with other retinoids, including retinol or retinoic acid.
- Moisturize. The AAD says starting slowly and using moisturizer helps reduce irritation.
- Wear sunscreen. Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to the sun, the AAD says, so use sunscreen every day.
Sun protection
The Ordinary notes that retinoids can make the skin more sensitive to UV radiation and that sun protection is particularly important when using them. The AAD adds that if you have sensitive skin, a physical sunscreen with titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide is a good choice; see our mineral sunscreen guide.
Pair retinol with a simple routine. For a morning serum, see our vitamin C serum guide, and for moisture, our facial moisturizer guide.
Who should be careful
- Pregnancy. The AAD says retinoids should not be used during pregnancy, and The Ordinary recommends avoiding retinoid skincare when pregnant or breastfeeding.
- Red or inflamed skin. The AAD says someone with a lot of redness or inflammation should avoid retinoids.
- Allergies or dryness. People who have skin allergies or dryness are probably not good candidates, per the AAD.
- Skin of color. The AAD notes irritation can trigger dark marks, and that starting slowly with moisturizer helps.
- Acne. The Ordinary says its retinol is not a treatment for acne; see a dermatologist for acne care.
If irritation happens
If your skin gets irritated, the AAD's advice applies: start slowly and use moisturizer. Stop a product that makes your skin painful, swollen or very red, and see a dermatologist if irritation does not settle or if you want a stronger prescription retinoid.
For other exfoliating products and how they differ, see our exfoliating toner pads guide.
What to look for when you buy
The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane
Best for: First-time retinol users
The Ordinary suggests starting with its 0.2% retinol before working up to higher strengths.
Watch out: Use at night and wear sunscreen by day.
See options on AmazonThe Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane
Best for: People who tolerate a lower strength
The Ordinary lists a water-free 0.5% retinol with squalane in 30ml.
Watch out: Do not combine with other retinoids, per The Ordinary.
See options on AmazonCeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum
Best for: Post-acne marks and texture
CeraVe lists encapsulated retinol with licorice root extract, three ceramides and niacinamide.
Watch out: No retinol percentage on the page; start every other night.
See options on AmazonQuestions people ask
- What does retinol do?
- The AAD says retinol is routinely used to improve uneven skin tone, pigmentation and texture.
- How often should I use retinol at first?
- An AAD dermatologist advises every other night to start, building up slowly.
- Which strength should I start with?
- The lowest you can find, per the AAD; The Ordinary suggests starting at 0.2%.
- Can I use retinol while pregnant?
- No. The AAD says retinoids should not be used during pregnancy.
- Do I need sunscreen with retinol?
- Yes. Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so wear sunscreen every day.
Sources
- Retinoid or retinol? (aad.org), American Academy of Dermatology
- Retinol 0.5% in Squalane (theordinary.com), The Ordinary
- Resurfacing Retinol Serum (cerave.com), CeraVe